Peruvian Pathways

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Puno (Lake Titicaca) & Arequipa



We decided to treat ourselves and take the Andean Explorer from Cusco to Puno (Lake Titicaca) which is a first class train vs. the backpacker train. What a wise decision. When we were shown to our assigned seats, we found wingback chairs and a table for 2, set with linen and some flowers. We were offered a tea/coffee service as the train pulled away from the station, then about 11 a.m. we were told that there would be a fashion show in the observatory car. First came the dancer, showing us some of the local Peruvian dances, then a fashion show...the young ladies modelling were wearing cat suits, over which they wore various Alpaca shawls, sweaters, etc......needless to say, Robin didn´t think he would be seeing ¨´catwomen´´ in Peru!!! That was followed by free pisco sours.....must say, we are really getting to like these.

The train ride lasted all day, and spent a good part of it in the observatory car. Great countryside, very dry and mountainous. We also reached a high altitude point of 14,172 feet. At this point the train stopped and there was local people selling there wares and gave us an opportunity to get out and take some pictures. Arrived in Puno around 6 p.m. and picked up by our hotel.

Must tell you that Puno was very cold. Put on about 4 to 5 layers of shirts and sweaters and Robin and I even went out and each bought an Alpaca sweater. The hotel had portable heaters which we used; this was also the smallest hotel room we have had to date. The town had a nice pedestrian walkway which is where most of the gringos were. Must say that there is not much to Puno besides the fact that it is used for a jump off point to visit Lake Titicaca. Having said that Puno was not a very nice town, we were blown away by the sights that we had the pleasure of visiting the next day. We opted for a ¨fast boat¨, again a wise decision, and we visited the Uros Islands and Taquile Island.

The Uros Islands are inhabited by the Aymara, who build new islands as young couples get married. The islands are made of Tortura reeds, and once a month they must place new reeds on top of the old ones, as they rot from the bottom. The islands are about 3 metres thick. They are probably about 2 km. off shore, about 50 /70 islands and are quite self sufficient. They raise guinea pigs and domesticated ducks, and grow potatoes, some beans, and they fish. They also eat the tortora reeds, the white part (the bulb) are rich in calcium and iron. The people here have beautiful teeth. We tasted some are they were good, however will still be seeing our dentist on our return!! They also use the reeds to build the various shelters they need...sleeping quarters, cooking shacks, etc. There is even one small island that is used for toilet. The waste is taken to the mainland for disposal..guess you kind of have to time your bathroom breaks; as you have to boat/row out to the island!!! The previous President (Fujimori) visited these islands several years ago and when he saw how these people lived, he had the government donate solar panels. The islands now have some power which allows them radios and small TV´s. When we arrived at the island the guide explained the history of the islands and then the local people showed us how they live. They weave a lot of their clothes and goods for trade/sale. We bought a beautiful weaving....think we are running out of room in our small house....have no idea where we will put it, but couldn´t resist it, it also helps these wonderful people. Once couple, Paolo and Marie Elena, took us into their home and dressed us up in their native everyday costumes...they dress in several layers due to the cold. Hope all of you who are reading our blog appreciate the length we go to to amuse the viewer in our odd clothing choices!!! We then were taken out for a boat ride in one of their reed boats around a few of the islands. As we left for the ride, the women of the island all came by the boat and sang in English....twinkle, twinkle little star and row, row, row your boat and as we drifted away they yelled out ¨Hasta la vista Baby!!¨Wonder if they taught this in tourism school!!

We then went on to visit Taquile Island. Very different people here vs. the Uros Islands. The people on Taquile speach Quechua. Once again when we arrived, we were given the history of the island. There are 6 different groups on this island and each group has a mayor/leader. The leader can be recognized by his headgear, wears a type of tuque with ear flaps. Married men wear another type of knitted hat, which had a long tail and single men also wear a knitted hat, however part of the hat is white......to my young female friends and nieces that are unattached, wouldn´t this make things easier when visiting bars!!!

Once last note on Lake Titicaca......a new fashion for ladies. Due to the cold, leggings are worn here, even have seen some young tourists wearing them. Claire however has chosen not to make this fashion statement upon her return to Canada!!

Spent another night in Puno, after having visited the islands, then caught a bus the next afternoon headed for Arequipa, the second largest City in Peru. The bus ride was 5 hours, but it went by very quickly. We were shown 2 movies , then I know you will all be jealous, we played BINGO in spanish.....who says we don´t know how to have a good time. Arrived in Arequipa about 8 p.m. and arrived at our delightful hotel, complete with swimming pool and beautiful grounds. It has been nice over the last couple of days to enjoy warmth and sunshine vs. the cold of Lake Titicaca. It is however a bit too cool for the pool. We have been in Arequipa for 2 days and are enjoying it very much. It is known as the White City, as a great number of the buildings are built of ¨silar¨which is white volcanic rock. To make these buildings even more dramatic, the interior courtyards are painted white, bright blue and orange.....absolutely startling against the beautiful blue sky.

In the last couple of days, we have visited the cathedral (think this is number 20 or so), the Monastery of Santa Catalina (takes up a full City block), which was amazing. Also took in an exhibit of an Inca mummy of a twelve year old girl found at the top of one of the volcanoes. It is believed she was given as a sacrafice by the Incas to their gods to appease bad weather. The thing that is odd about this mummy is that she was frozen and is still in this state today. She therefore still has her skin, hair, nails,etc.....a little weird, but interesting to see.

They have many good restaurants here in the City, and last night both Robin and I tried ostrich. It was very good, but we looked like a couple of ¨duffuses¨because we were given white paper bibs to wear!!!! We have also eaten a lot of quinoa, which is a local grain and is very good....believe my brother Denis would call this ¨hippy crap¨!!
Tomorrow we are off for 1 night/2 days to visit the Colca Canyon. This is where we hope to see Condors. Ran into an English couple today who had visited the Canyon the previous day and had seen several.

I have posted some additional pictures on Flicker and to access these, you simply need to click on the right hand side of the blog where it says, pictures








Pictures
1) Andean Explorer Train
2) Countryside from train
3) Uros Islands
4) Aymara couple
5) Men dancing on Taquile Island
6) Hotel in Arequipa
7) Arequipa Cathedral at nightime

1 Comments:

  • Saw the pics on Flicker...fantastic! I like Robin's hat...is it Alpaca? I have an Alpaca scarf and mittens - warmest ones I've ever had, yet so lightweight. Funny to think you'd need to have warm clothing where you are...but I guess the elevation makes it cool. Your posts are very informative and entertaining. I was thinking about the "all-day" train ride you took - I don't think I would have fared so well on that...remember how ill I'd get after a few hours in the car in france! haha...will check back soon! love lisa (and Rich).

    By Blogger Leece, at 8:25 AM  

Post a Comment

<< Home