Peruvian Pathways

Friday, May 18, 2007

Sacred Valley & Amazon Jungle


On May 11th, we arrived in the Sacred Valley and stayed at Quinta Patawasi, a lovely B & B in Urabamba. The owners are a Peruvian couple, Jim having lived a lot of his life in the U.S. They made us feel right at home. We were introduced to the rest of the guests that were staying there, a group of 7 Americans travelling together, a couple from Alaska and a young Irish couple. The first evening we were all welcomed with a few rounds of "pisco sour". Later Robin and I and the Irish couple had dinner with our hosts, Jim and Antuca and had a typical Peruvian dish "lomos saltido"; which is a mixture of fried strips of beef, peppers, tomatoes and onion...very good.

Urabamba is a working agricultural town with only some tourist development. Visited Chinceros, site of an Inca ruin & home to some world famous weavers. From there we went to Moray where the Incas had built a series of terraces in a deep natural depression. Each terrace was a different micro-climate. It is believed the Incas used this site as a laboratory to test which crops would grow at what elevation. Next stop was Salineras where there are salt pans which the locals believe are 5,000 years old and salt production is still in existence today. From there our driver and guide dropped us off and we hiked about 1 1/2 hours back to the main road going to Urabamba.

The next day, Mother's Day, we were off to visit the Inca ruins and the Sunday market in Pisac. At the ruins our group was joined by a Shaman who had a ceremony to bless everyone who was travelling in our group. The B & B had a special roast pig dinner for all the guests that night; and a lot of fun was had by all. They really celebrate Mother's Day in a big way here; lot's of Chicha drunken....we were well advised not to drink this "corn beer"; as we would be spending our days in the bathroom!!! Needless to say, we heeded this suggestion.

On Monday a 1 1/2 hour taxi ride back to Cusco then a 1 hour plane flight to Puerto Maldonado. We were brought by a "thatched roof bus" to the offices of Rainforest Expeditions. Then a 45 minute bus ride over a rough jungle road to the river and a 3 1/2 "long boat" ride to the jungle lodge "Refugio Amazonas". It is very humid & hot in the jungle to say the least. Constantly sweating and it is hard to keep your clothes dry. Arrived at the lodge around 5:30 p.m. and it was already dark. Had to walk about 10 minutes into the jungle to get to the lodge. What a magical sight arriving to a large thatched roof building with all the kerosene lamps on. The lodge is fully opn to the elements with no walls. Our room was located in a large thatched roof building with one wall completely open to the outside... a picture window to the jungle with no glass!! We slept under mosquito nets and had cold showers; which in this climate is a pleasure. This lodge is only 2 1/2 yrs. old. We have two guides with us for the next 5 days, Gilbert the main guide and his trainee Donnell. Robin and I have lucked out again...we are the only 2 in our group; so basically a private tour.



The first morning up at 4:00 a.m., breakfast at 4:30 a.m. and stated a 14 km hike through the jungle to a lake. The first hour we hiked in darkness, using our Petzl headlamps to see. As we walked we could hear the unique calls of the Red Howler Monkeys. Our guide (Gilbert!!), was able to locate a family of 3 monkeys and we spent quite a while observing them. They are one of the biggest primates in the Amazon Basin....you can't believe the racket they make. Also along the jungle path we were given a sex education lesson. One of the flowers looks like the female reproduction organ & the home of the cicada looks like the male organ....no wonder the jungle is hot & steamy!!! At the lake we boarded a wooden pontoon boat & spent 2 hours observing Macaws, Kingfishers, Stinky Birds, Snake Birds, King Vultures, Black Caracara's & literally dozens of various butterflies. The butterflies are very big and the colours are spectacular and hundreds of types. We also fished for piranha using raw meat as bait. Only our guide caught a tiny one, which reminded us of the one our friend Jim Low (fish boy) had caught when we kayaked in the Broken Islands.

Later in the day we visited a jungle farm which produced a variety of fruit. The soil is quite poor & the farmers struggle to keep the jungle from taking over. The work is hard & he gets paid very little for his efforts. His modest bush shack has no electicity or running water. It is so hot& humid here that our digital camera has been acting up. In future it would help to bring some Silica Gel to absorb some of the moisture. After dinner, went back to our room to do some reading; lit by kerosene lamps and candles. When Claire raised the toilet seat.........staring back at me was a large toad!!! I don't know who was more startled!!

We hike in rubber boots as the trails are very muddy in sections & hiking boots would be completely covered in water. The rubber boots are also useful in preventing snake bites!!! The second day we hiked to a macaw & mammal clay lick but were not successful in seeing any wildlife; however did see numerous other birds. The animals like the clay because it provides essential minelals to supplement a diet of mainly fruit.


On the third morning, up again at 4:00 a.m. and headed off at 5:00 a.m. to a canopy tower; which was 30 meters high....yikes!! From there we watched the sunrise and saw tons of birds and heard the sounds of the jungle as the animals were getting on with their day. What a great way to start our day as well. The food at the lodge has been great and the staff are wonderful. Our guide Gilbert is excellent at his job; amazing the wildlife he can spot....also very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna. Started pouring rain about 10:00 a.m. and literally a jungle rainfall for the rest of the day; so we took the opportunity to rest and read. When we left today, the river had river about 7 metres.....hard to believe.

I can't say enough about our jungle experience....for Robin some great memories of his childhood and for me new experiences every day. This morning, May 18th, headed back to Cusco. Time enough to get some laundry done and we are off by train tomorrow to Puno (Lake Titicaca). Did a lot of hiking in the Amazon, so Robin's knees suffering a bit. Our trip tomorrow is an all day train ride in first class....that should help. He's off right now getting a massage.

Sorry, no pictures of the Sacred Valley; as we had already downloaded onto our zip drive.


Hello to all, Claire & Robin...would love to hear from you!

3 Comments:

  • Hi again. Wow - every post gets more and more intersting. Sleeping in a jungle under mosquito nets and hiking through muddy trails in the dark and hearing monkeys and seeing toads in the toilet! It sounds exhausting but at the same time exhiliarating. You two are amazing and I envy your spirit and sense of adventure. I imagine you'll both come back a few pounds lighter - not that you need to of course - but it seems like a very active vacation so far. Rich and I are enjoying your blog very much. I've even forwarded the link to my parents because my dad would love to do what you're doing. They said it took their breath away...so keep posting! We miss you and love you - be safe and happy trails. Love Lisa and Rich.

    By Blogger Leece, at 10:27 AM  

  • Howdy Logans

    It's great to hear about the high temperatures and humidity . . . the forecast here is for snow . . . again!

    I'm really enjoying the blog - can't wait for more pictures of MP

    Hugs & Kisses - Angie

    By Blogger Angie, at 1:05 PM  

  • Hello Logans,
    What a fabulous trip ā€“ Iā€™m jealous. Your comments and pictures of the Galapagos bring back some very fond memories of when I was there ā€“ it looks as though you covered the same islands I did. I must echo your comments about Ecuador and all that it has to offer over and above the Galapagos. This country is blessed with some of the highest and most beautiful mountains (many over 20,000 ft), unbelievable oceans (Galapagos), and significant and important portions of Amazonia. I wholeheartedly endorse your recommendation as a destination for the intrepid traveler.

    Looking forward to hearing about your trip first hand ā€“ have a safe flight home!

    Steve Frangos

    By Blogger Frangman, at 11:07 AM  

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