Arequipa and Mancora, nothern Peru beach town

We have now been in Mancora for a couple of days and the weather is absolutely beautiful. Nice to be in shorts and swim wear, instead of layers of clothing when we were in Lake Titicaca .

Staying in a great oceanside hotel. Our room is large and once again to the delight of Robin a beautiful hammock on the outside patio. Enjoying our down time here. We do find that there is limited english spoken here, but Robin in managing to be understood as he has more Spanish then Claire. This place has not really been a tourist destination in the past as it is not easy to get to, however lots of building going on and we are sure that it will soon become a busy spot...it is beautiful here.

Have been enjoying lots of seafood while here and our favorite dish is Majarisco, a great mixture of seafood in a wonderful sauce. Will need to have a Peruvian dinner party when we get back home.

Just a few bits of news from our time in Arequipa. Claire decided she needed a haircut and for the price of $5 managed not to get sheared like she did in Nicaragua!!

When we were on our trip to the Colca Canyon, we tried a fruit called Tuna, which is the fruit off the prickley pear cactus. The lady who sold us this fruit definetely took a course in marketing....she told the group that the fruit was good for .....LOVE.....

Another interesting cultural difference between two Pre-Inca tribes in the Colca Valley, was that the women wore different types of hats. Once wore a very flat top hat and the other tribe wore a conical type hat. Both types of hats were depictions of cranial manipulation that the pre-Incas did on their upper class.

The next day when we were back in Arequipa, we were sitting in the central square just watching the world go by we were approached by 5/6 local school children (well dressed) and they interviewed us. Wanted to know where we had been in Peru and around Arequipa and also asked if they could take our picture. Once they took the picture I asked for 1 Soles and the young boy who took the picture looked quited stunned. We then started laughing and he realized it was simply a joke.

Received some great news this past Sunday, our son Richard and his partner Lisa got engaged. We are thrilled.

No pictures this time around...sorry.

Colca Canyon

We took a 2 day trip into the Colca Canyon, some 3 1/2 hours from Arequipa by tourist van. On our trip we were joined by a couple from Curacao, 3 young Chinese girls, 2 young men from Holland, 2 young male teens from England and a couple from England. The group really clicked and we had lots of laughs. En route to the Colca Canyon we reached an elevation of 16,000 feet. Along the way, we also saw wild vicunas (a member of the llama family), alpacas and llamas. The countryside is like a moonscape with very little vegatation. However, having said this, there are some irrigated plots of land which really stand out. Quite a contrast. Stopped briefly in the town of Chivay, which is the jump off point to visit the Canyon.

We then continued on a rough country road to our hotel, which is owned by the same hotel we are staying in at Arequipa. Beautifully located in the countryside with views of the Colca Valley and the terraced farms. To greet us at the hotel was a pet llama!! We then went for a short hike through the terraces with our guide, Leo. Then before dinner, we went to the local hot springs...unlike the ones in Canada, you can enjoy a beer while in the pool.....how civilized!

The next morning we were up at 5 a.m. to get started for the trip to Condor viewpoint. When we got to the viewpoint there were already scores of other tourists, but we managed to still get a good spot for viewing these magnificent, ugly birds!! About 10 minutes after arriving we spotted our first condor....spectacular. These birds are so big they cannot fly; but depend on the thermals to give them loft on which to soar. We were even lucky enough to spot one condor simply perched on a nearby tree. Their wing span is about 12 feet. The younger condors are black with white markings around their neck and on their wing tips. The older ones are brown in colour. What a sight!

We then took a walk along the canyon rim. This canyon is the second deepest in the world, the first one also near Arequipa. Colca Canyon is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon at approximately 10,000 feet deep. It is possible to hike down to the canyon floor and back up. There are camp sites below where you need to stay overnight. Not on our agenda....bad knees for Robin. Not withstanding, we really enjoyed the views and short hike we took.

Another feature of the canyon are the extensive terraces which were built over 1,500 years ago and are still being used today employing the ancient irrigation and farming methods.

We are now spending our last day in Arequipa before flying to Mancora via Lima, in the north of Peru. Mancora is a beach town, where we will spend 5 days before heading to Ecuador.

Once again thank you to those of you (thanks Brenda, Lisa,etc.) who have kept in touch. Just FYI, if you read our previous blog on Lake Titicaca, we have added some pictures in the blog.

Pictures:

1) Colca Canyon

2) Claire in hammock at hotel in Colca Canyon
3 & 4) Condors

5) Pre Inca Terraces in Colca Canyon

Puno (Lake Titicaca) & Arequipa

We decided to treat ourselves and take the Andean Explorer from Cusco to Puno (Lake Titicaca) which is a first class train vs. the backpacker train. What a wise decision. When we were shown to our assigned seats, we found wingback chairs and a table for 2, set with linen and some flowers. We were offered a tea/coffee service as the train pulled away from the station, then about 11 a.m. we were told that there would be a fashion show in the observatory car. First came the dancer, showing us some of the local Peruvian dances, then a fashion show...the young ladies modelling were wearing cat suits, over which they wore various Alpaca shawls, sweaters, etc......needless to say, Robin didn´t think he would be seeing ¨´catwomen´´ in Peru!!! That was followed by free pisco sours.....must say, we are really getting to like these.

The train ride lasted all day, and spent a good part of it in the observatory car. Great countryside, very dry and mountainous. We also reached a high altitude point of 14,172 feet. At this point the train stopped and there was local people selling there wares and gave us an opportunity to get out and take some pictures. Arrived in Puno around 6 p.m. and picked up by our hotel.

Must tell you that Puno was very cold. Put on about 4 to 5 layers of shirts and sweaters and Robin and I even went out and each bought an Alpaca sweater. The hotel had portable heaters which we used; this was also the smallest hotel room we have had to date. The town had a nice pedestrian walkway which is where most of the gringos were. Must say that there is not much to Puno besides the fact that it is used for a jump off point to visit Lake Titicaca. Having said that Puno was not a very nice town, we were blown away by the sights that we had the pleasure of visiting the next day. We opted for a ¨fast boat¨, again a wise decision, and we visited the Uros Islands and Taquile Island.

The Uros Islands are inhabited by the Aymara, who build new islands as young couples get married. The islands are made of Tortura reeds, and once a month they must place new reeds on top of the old ones, as they rot from the bottom. The islands are about 3 metres thick. They are probably about 2 km. off shore, about 50 /70 islands and are quite self sufficient. They raise guinea pigs and domesticated ducks, and grow potatoes, some beans, and they fish. They also eat the tortora reeds, the white part (the bulb) are rich in calcium and iron. The people here have beautiful teeth. We tasted some are they were good, however will still be seeing our dentist on our return!! They also use the reeds to build the various shelters they need...sleeping quarters, cooking shacks, etc. There is even one small island that is used for toilet. The waste is taken to the mainland for disposal..guess you kind of have to time your bathroom breaks; as you have to boat/row out to the island!!! The previous President (Fujimori) visited these islands several years ago and when he saw how these people lived, he had the government donate solar panels. The islands now have some power which allows them radios and small TV´s. When we arrived at the island the guide explained the history of the islands and then the local people showed us how they live. They weave a lot of their clothes and goods for trade/sale. We bought a beautiful weaving....think we are running out of room in our small house....have no idea where we will put it, but couldn´t resist it, it also helps these wonderful people. Once couple, Paolo and Marie Elena, took us into their home and dressed us up in their native everyday costumes...they dress in several layers due to the cold. Hope all of you who are reading our blog appreciate the length we go to to amuse the viewer in our odd clothing choices!!! We then were taken out for a boat ride in one of their reed boats around a few of the islands. As we left for the ride, the women of the island all came by the boat and sang in English....twinkle, twinkle little star and row, row, row your boat and as we drifted away they yelled out ¨Hasta la vista Baby!!¨Wonder if they taught this in tourism school!!

We then went on to visit Taquile Island. Very different people here vs. the Uros Islands. The people on Taquile speach Quechua. Once again when we arrived, we were given the history of the island. There are 6 different groups on this island and each group has a mayor/leader. The leader can be recognized by his headgear, wears a type of tuque with ear flaps. Married men wear another type of knitted hat, which had a long tail and single men also wear a knitted hat, however part of the hat is white......to my young female friends and nieces that are unattached, wouldn´t this make things easier when visiting bars!!!

Once last note on Lake Titicaca......a new fashion for ladies. Due to the cold, leggings are worn here, even have seen some young tourists wearing them. Claire however has chosen not to make this fashion statement upon her return to Canada!!

Spent another night in Puno, after having visited the islands, then caught a bus the next afternoon headed for Arequipa, the second largest City in Peru. The bus ride was 5 hours, but it went by very quickly. We were shown 2 movies , then I know you will all be jealous, we played BINGO in spanish.....who says we don´t know how to have a good time. Arrived in Arequipa about 8 p.m. and arrived at our delightful hotel, complete with swimming pool and beautiful grounds. It has been nice over the last couple of days to enjoy warmth and sunshine vs. the cold of Lake Titicaca. It is however a bit too cool for the pool. We have been in Arequipa for 2 days and are enjoying it very much. It is known as the White City, as a great number of the buildings are built of ¨silar¨which is white volcanic rock. To make these buildings even more dramatic, the interior courtyards are painted white, bright blue and orange.....absolutely startling against the beautiful blue sky.

In the last couple of days, we have visited the cathedral (think this is number 20 or so), the Monastery of Santa Catalina (takes up a full City block), which was amazing. Also took in an exhibit of an Inca mummy of a twelve year old girl found at the top of one of the volcanoes. It is believed she was given as a sacrafice by the Incas to their gods to appease bad weather. The thing that is odd about this mummy is that she was frozen and is still in this state today. She therefore still has her skin, hair, nails,etc.....a little weird, but interesting to see.

They have many good restaurants here in the City, and last night both Robin and I tried ostrich. It was very good, but we looked like a couple of ¨duffuses¨because we were given white paper bibs to wear!!!! We have also eaten a lot of quinoa, which is a local grain and is very good....believe my brother Denis would call this ¨hippy crap¨!!
Tomorrow we are off for 1 night/2 days to visit the Colca Canyon. This is where we hope to see Condors. Ran into an English couple today who had visited the Canyon the previous day and had seen several.

I have posted some additional pictures on Flicker and to access these, you simply need to click on the right hand side of the blog where it says, pictures

Pictures
1) Andean Explorer Train
2) Countryside from train
3) Uros Islands
4) Aymara couple
5) Men dancing on Taquile Island
6) Hotel in Arequipa
7) Arequipa Cathedral at nightime

Sacred Valley & Amazon Jungle

On May 11th, we arrived in the Sacred Valley and stayed at Quinta Patawasi, a lovely B & B in Urabamba. The owners are a Peruvian couple, Jim having lived a lot of his life in the U.S. They made us feel right at home. We were introduced to the rest of the guests that were staying there, a group of 7 Americans travelling together, a couple from Alaska and a young Irish couple. The first evening we were all welcomed with a few rounds of "pisco sour". Later Robin and I and the Irish couple had dinner with our hosts, Jim and Antuca and had a typical Peruvian dish "lomos saltido"; which is a mixture of fried strips of beef, peppers, tomatoes and onion...very good.

Urabamba is a working agricultural town with only some tourist development. Visited Chinceros, site of an Inca ruin & home to some world famous weavers. From there we went to Moray where the Incas had built a series of terraces in a deep natural depression. Each terrace was a different micro-climate. It is believed the Incas used this site as a laboratory to test which crops would grow at what elevation. Next stop was Salineras where there are salt pans which the locals believe are 5,000 years old and salt production is still in existence today. From there our driver and guide dropped us off and we hiked about 1 1/2 hours back to the main road going to Urabamba.

The next day, Mother's Day, we were off to visit the Inca ruins and the Sunday market in Pisac. At the ruins our group was joined by a Shaman who had a ceremony to bless everyone who was travelling in our group. The B & B had a special roast pig dinner for all the guests that night; and a lot of fun was had by all. They really celebrate Mother's Day in a big way here; lot's of Chicha drunken....we were well advised not to drink this "corn beer"; as we would be spending our days in the bathroom!!! Needless to say, we heeded this suggestion.

On Monday a 1 1/2 hour taxi ride back to Cusco then a 1 hour plane flight to Puerto Maldonado. We were brought by a "thatched roof bus" to the offices of Rainforest Expeditions. Then a 45 minute bus ride over a rough jungle road to the river and a 3 1/2 "long boat" ride to the jungle lodge "Refugio Amazonas". It is very humid & hot in the jungle to say the least. Constantly sweating and it is hard to keep your clothes dry. Arrived at the lodge around 5:30 p.m. and it was already dark. Had to walk about 10 minutes into the jungle to get to the lodge. What a magical sight arriving to a large thatched roof building with all the kerosene lamps on. The lodge is fully opn to the elements with no walls. Our room was located in a large thatched roof building with one wall completely open to the outside... a picture window to the jungle with no glass!! We slept under mosquito nets and had cold showers; which in this climate is a pleasure. This lodge is only 2 1/2 yrs. old. We have two guides with us for the next 5 days, Gilbert the main guide and his trainee Donnell. Robin and I have lucked out again...we are the only 2 in our group; so basically a private tour.

The first morning up at 4:00 a.m., breakfast at 4:30 a.m. and stated a 14 km hike through the jungle to a lake. The first hour we hiked in darkness, using our Petzl headlamps to see. As we walked we could hear the unique calls of the Red Howler Monkeys. Our guide (Gilbert!!), was able to locate a family of 3 monkeys and we spent quite a while observing them. They are one of the biggest primates in the Amazon Basin....you can't believe the racket they make. Also along the jungle path we were given a sex education lesson. One of the flowers looks like the female reproduction organ & the home of the cicada looks like the male organ....no wonder the jungle is hot & steamy!!! At the lake we boarded a wooden pontoon boat & spent 2 hours observing Macaws, Kingfishers, Stinky Birds, Snake Birds, King Vultures, Black Caracara's & literally dozens of various butterflies. The butterflies are very big and the colours are spectacular and hundreds of types. We also fished for piranha using raw meat as bait. Only our guide caught a tiny one, which reminded us of the one our friend Jim Low (fish boy) had caught when we kayaked in the Broken Islands.

Later in the day we visited a jungle farm which produced a variety of fruit. The soil is quite poor & the farmers struggle to keep the jungle from taking over. The work is hard & he gets paid very little for his efforts. His modest bush shack has no electicity or running water. It is so hot& humid here that our digital camera has been acting up. In future it would help to bring some Silica Gel to absorb some of the moisture. After dinner, went back to our room to do some reading; lit by kerosene lamps and candles. When Claire raised the toilet seat.........staring back at me was a large toad!!! I don't know who was more startled!!

We hike in rubber boots as the trails are very muddy in sections & hiking boots would be completely covered in water. The rubber boots are also useful in preventing snake bites!!! The second day we hiked to a macaw & mammal clay lick but were not successful in seeing any wildlife; however did see numerous other birds. The animals like the clay because it provides essential minelals to supplement a diet of mainly fruit.

On the third morning, up again at 4:00 a.m. and headed off at 5:00 a.m. to a canopy tower; which was 30 meters high....yikes!! From there we watched the sunrise and saw tons of birds and heard the sounds of the jungle as the animals were getting on with their day. What a great way to start our day as well. The food at the lodge has been great and the staff are wonderful. Our guide Gilbert is excellent at his job; amazing the wildlife he can spot....also very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna. Started pouring rain about 10:00 a.m. and literally a jungle rainfall for the rest of the day; so we took the opportunity to rest and read. When we left today, the river had river about 7 metres.....hard to believe.

I can't say enough about our jungle experience....for Robin some great memories of his childhood and for me new experiences every day. This morning, May 18th, headed back to Cusco. Time enough to get some laundry done and we are off by train tomorrow to Puno (Lake Titicaca). Did a lot of hiking in the Amazon, so Robin's knees suffering a bit. Our trip tomorrow is an all day train ride in first class....that should help. He's off right now getting a massage.

Sorry, no pictures of the Sacred Valley; as we had already downloaded onto our zip drive.

Hello to all, Claire & Robin...would love to hear from you!

Cusco/Machu Picchu

Spent second day in Cusco getting further acclimatized....both of us doing really well. We have been drinking lots of Coca tea. Do not worry about us becoming drug addicts... we were told it takes about 350 kilos of coca leaves to make 1 kilo of cocaine!!! The city is very charming with lots of hotels, hostels, restaurants, gift shops, internet cafes, etc. Everything that a traveller would want. Went to a charming restaurant for dinner and both of us tried Alpaca, a nice sweet tasting meat. We haven't tried guinea pig as yet, however someone told us that they cut it in half and flatten it...looks like road kill.....we do intend on trying it!

Picked up very early to take the train which goes to Aguas Caliente, the town which services Machu Picchu. With us was our guide, Justino, and as it turned out we were the only two booked for this 2 day trip....so basically a private tour. Got off at km. 104, which was about a 3 1/2 hour train ride, parts of which went through the Sacred Valley. The train pretty well follows the Urubamba River all the way.

Started the hike around 10.30 a.m. at 6,200 feet and reached our highest point of 9,000 feet around 2 p.m. Saw some Inca ruins along the way, one located along some terraces in the mountain. It was very hot, 30 degrees and very steep in some sections, which involved climbing up stone steps. Entered Machu Picchu around 4,30 p.m. through the Sun Gate...WOW!!!

We were fortunate that this was the end of the day and just a handful of tourists left on the site. Also the visibility was good and we got some wonderful pictures. Saw some llamas in the site which were very tame...think they are used to tourists. Hard to fully describe the magnitude and beauty of this Wonder of the World....the pictures simply don't do it justice. It is amazing to think that this was built by the Incas in the 1400's without benefit of any tools. A real engineering feat considering the elevation and the terrain. Justino whose english was very good explained a great deal of the history along our hike and at M.P. He was very knowledgable and had a great sense of humour. Then took the last bus out of M.P. down to the town of Aguas Calientes which took about 1/2 hour on a very windy narrow road...reminded Claire of the bus trips up to Sunshine ski hill, although the buses at M.P. were first class.

Stayed at a hostal belonging to the tour company and had a "luxurious" shower followed by a cold beer!! Diner and in bed by 8.30 p.m. When we arrived at the hostal, Justino advised that there were no "matrimonial rooms" only double. Claire told him it was o.k. , simply too tired to do anything matrimonial!! He got a good laugh.
Up the next morning at 5 a.m. departing Aguas Calientes by bus up to M.P. by 6.30 to see the sun come up over the site. Unfortunately, it was raining and low lying clouds, so photo opportunities were limited. How lucky we were to have seen it the day before. Our guide took us for a 2 hour tour of the ruins and explained the history, culture and important aspects of the site. Sean, as an archiologist, you have to get here some day. Then spent some time waiting for the rain to let up, were able to take a few more pics, then took the bus back to Aguas Calientes. Train ride back to Cusco which took 4 1/2 hours was entertaining due to the presence of a dozen drunken Irishmen!!!

Spent the next day recuperating in Cusco, visiting various Museums and had a massage for one hour for the princely sum of $30 U.S. for the two of us. It was great to get the knots out of our back and legs.

Left Cusco this morning by private car for a 1 hour trip to Urubamba, where we will be for the next 3 days. Urubamba is located in the Sacred Valley and is a true working agricultural town, with few tourists, or tourist amenities....great!!

Pictures- 1- Quecha girls posing with baby alpaca

2- Inca ruin Wayna Wayna along the hike

3- Claire along the trek

4- Claire and Robin entering Machu Picchu through the Sun Gate

5- Terraces at M.P.

6- Justino, our guide, Claire and Robin at the hostal in Aguas Calientes

Lima / Cusco

Arrived in Lima after a very long day of travelling with a 1 1/2 hour delay in Houston due to bad weather. The Hotel in Lima was located in the district of Miraflores, one of the better areas of the City. The hotel is an old converted mansion in the Spanish colonial style. The City is very modern and clean and has 9 million people. Apparently they had a cholera epidemic in 1997 and are now keeping everything very clean.

We were picked up by our driver, Jose Casanova!!! A wonderful man who took us around to many of the sites in Lima . We visited the cathedral which houses numerous very beautiful and ornate christian artifacts, such as alters, paintings and creches. Also housed the remains of Pizarro, the Spanish conqueror of the Incas.....he is not well liked in this country to say the least.

Also visited the Indian markets, which are full of woven garments, paintings, jewellery, etc. Silver jewellery here is very cheap and exceptional....does Claire need more jewellery!!!

Watched the changing of the guards outside the Presidential Palace in downtown Lima. While walking downtown in Miraflores after dinner, stopped to enjoy a Peruvian band playing .....locals got up and danced along with the local music....great to see the locals enjoying themselves.

So far, have tried goat stew, ceviche (marinated raw seafood) and pisco sour (a white brandy based drink with lime, sugar and egg whites = national drink, very strong). We have yet to try Cuy (guinea pig) -Squeaky, a previous family pet comes to mind!!

Flew to Cusco today, which was a 1 hour flight, mostly over the Andes and the pilot came in very close to the peaks - some of which were covered in snow. During the flight, we were served a snack and coca tea made from coca leaves, which can also be chewed. This tea helps with altitude acclimatization. So far seems to be working, although we certainly felt the altitude (11,000 feet). This city of 350,000 was the original capital of Peru during the Inca empire. The city is very hilly with narrow cobbled streets, and lots of character. Many indiginous people selling their handicrafts, including alpaca garments, paintings and weavings. It is a little cool here, about 20 during the day but dropping steadily with nightfall. Will spend tomorrow touring the town, then off for our 2 day Inca Trail trek on Tuesday morning.

Pictures

1) Cathedral in Lima

2) Claire with driver Jose

3) Changing of the guard

4) Robin at hostal in Cusco

5) Cusco street